Kumasi: Days 9-11 Overview

After leaving the breezy tranquility of Cape Coast, with its bloody past and its conflicted present, we travelled on the dusty road to Kumasi. Kumasi is the center of Asante cultural life, but had been for centuries the home of the Asantehene (the chosen leader of Asante). Unlike the cosmopolitan cities of Cape Coast and Accra, Kumasi is dominated by the Asante (a part of the Akan ethnic group), but still possesses many different ethnicities and religions. During our two days in the sprawling and busy city, we visited three separate villages and the palace of the Asantehene.

Our first destination in Kumasi was the 20th century palace of the recently deceased Asantehene, Otumfo Opoku Ware II. In this palace, called Manhiya, the textbooks came alive. We witnessed the extent of personal wealth and near universal acclaim from from both West and East, with medals and gifts from Great Britain, the United States and Ethiopia to past Asantehenes and the present one, Otufu Osie Tutu II. We heard tales of both the internal African conquests of the Asante and the 20th century conquest by the British. Hearing the histories illuminated us to the fact that the Scramble for African had both African winners and losers. After seeing the political center of Asanteland we were ready to explore key cultural elements.

The aforementioned villages are said to be the home of three important cultural practices of the Asante: Kente cloth, Adinkra symbols, and Wood carving. Kente cloth, according to many originating in the village of Bonwire, is a product of weaving several threads together resulting in a wonderfully artistic and colorful tapestry that is known throughout the world. We learned that certain patterns are reserved for royalty and also have additional meetings. On that note we also travelled to the Adinkra village, Ntonso, whose symbols contain and allow transmission of central tenants of Akan philosophies. The symbols are seen throughout Ghana, showing up on billboards, buildings, clothing and on woodcarvings. We saw many of these woodcarvings in a village, called Ahwiaa, which put on display Ghana's abilities to work wonders with wood. Student and visitor alike was treated with Ghana's wildlife, philosophies and central symbols rendered with the products of Ghana's hinterland. Leaving Kumasi was difficult both literally and figuratively, leaving a city so central Ghana's history and culture and as the busy intersections eroded into mud roads full of holes during our push north to Ghana's largest wildlife preserve, Mole.

Cape Coast: Visiting the Cape Coast and Elmina Forts – by Brian Plaia

For over three hundred years the colonial forts in Cape Coast have stood, their presence a solemn reminder of the horrors of history that had taken place in a time that will never and should never be forgotten.

Fortresses like these were romanticized in movies like Pirates of the Caribbean where Johnny Depp is swinging about joyously trying to escape British arrest. The stark reality however, is that many a soul had been led to forts of similar fashion on the Gold Coast never to return outside the walls, let alone the dungeons.

Enslaved Africans were kept in cramped conditions, often where three hundred men would be thrown into a room no bigger than the size of a typical classroom and locked in with little to no air circulation, and at most one small window for light. There were no restrooms, beds, or even mats. Enslaved Africans stood and slept in their own urine, feces, and blood, among the dead and the dying.

For those who resisted, they were taken to the cell of the condemned, where was no circulation or light. The condemned were locked inside this cell with no light and no food. The condemned stayed in the cell until they died of starvation, when their bodies would be brought out and thrown into the sea. This process was intended to strike fear in the hearts of the enslaved.

Even the Door of No Return, the final point in the dungeon where the enslaved would be taken to awaiting ships for transport to the Americas and Europe, was purposely constructed to keep Africans under duress and strict control. Not wider than a foot across, one had to turn sideways to fit, and then duck his or her head simply to make it through the doorway.

Standing in the dungeons, the tour guide points out the fact that you cannot see the brick making up the floor underneath your feet. This is because a foot of compacted, and now dried, human waste comprises the floor.

Possibly the most hypocritical and sickening part of the fort was the church that was used by the colonial soldiers. Situated directly above the male dungeons, the church stands as a reminder of the travesties against humanity that was committed in these buildings.

The emotional effect of standing in these dungeons, having the lights turned off, and touching the steel doors that kept people captive in this fort is overwhelming. One cannot help but quietly and solemnly listen as the tour guide offers history on a particular part of the castle, only to have your mind flooded with images of what it actually could have been like standing in that very spot four to five hundred years prior. Everything here is as real as it gets. History books can only give you so much information but to see it up close and in color is a feeling that could never be replicated. We learn from history, and no matter how painful, these castles are a part of history that should never be removed. The experience of visiting Cape Coast and Elmina forts will last a lifetime.

Cape Coast: Days 5-8 Overview

We left Accra and made our way west to Cape Coast by bus (about 3 hours). Cape Coast was Ghana’s original capital city of Ghana, and remains the capital of the Fante people.

Our schedule in Cape Coast was just as busy as it was in Accra. We arrived on a Sunday, and following lunch and a briefing from program staff, students entered their homestays with Cape Coast families. While students primarily stay in small hotels or hostels during the program, in Cape Coast the schedule was designed so as to allow students to live with local families. Indeed, the best way to learn about a culture is to live with a family, to observe cultural practices, examine similarities and differences, and to build new connections and friendships.

On Monday, we visited the Cape Coast Dungeon. Today a World Heritage Site, the Cape Coast Dungeon was once one of the major Forts through which enslaved Africans were held and then transported to the Americas and Europe (see forthcoming post on the Cape Coast Dungeons). Following the visit to Cape Coast Dungeon, we had the opportunity to engage in discussion with University of Cape Coast Vice-Chancellor Dr. Naana Opoku-Agyemang, who offered the lecture “Where there is no Silence: Articulations of Resistance to Enslavement.”

We took Tuesday as a chance to decompress a bit from the experience of visiting the Cape Coast Dungeon, by visiting Kakum National Park, about 30kms north of Cape Coast. One of Ghana’s best-known national parks, Kakum is a tropical rainforest with forest canopy walks high above the forest. With over 500 species of butterflies, several different types of birds, and unique fauna (many of which are of significant cultural and medicinal value to Ghanaians), Kakum was a great day excursion. With some putting aside a fear of heights, students and staff enjoying walking the forest canopy (check the photos below!). After Kakum, we drove to nearby Brenu Beach for some lunch and beach time. Some lounged in hammocks while others swam.

On Wednesday, we re-engaged the discussion of the Trans-Atlantic slave trade by visiting Elmina, another slave dungeon in the area. Following the tour we traveled to a nearby beach-side restaurant and lodge for some wonderful Ghanaian food as well as another discussion on the difficult history of slavery. This second discussion was facilitated by Rabbi Coheen Halevi, an African-American who has lived in Ghana for 25 years, is married to a Ghanaian, and is heavily involved with educational work on the slave dungeons for the purpose of bringing people together, examining the past, healing, and discussion. Rabbi is also instrumental in the important work of Panafest, which is a bi-annual festival held in Ghana since 1992 to promote unity and Pan-Africanism. Our discussion with Rabbi initially focused on the slave dungeons, and broadened out to talk about Ghana’s role in Africa, worldwide, and the development challenges that face the country on local, national, and global levels.

The Nightlife of Accra - by Zakiya Thornhill

Workers by day, partiers by night. I was introduced to nightlife in Accra by visiting a lounge that took on many similarities as those in New York City. Both the women and men were well dressed with classy, expensive clothing. There were VIP sections reserved for some, with bottles of Grey Goose on each table. The place was filled with university students and corporate workers. I even met a lady from the United Kingdom, who worked for a beer company and had just moved to Accra.

The people were BEAUTIFUL! Gorgeous Ghanaian women accompanied broad chested Ghanaian men who all seemed to have deep voices.

I love this city and can’t wait to visit Accra again!

P.S.: I even learned how to Azonto (Ghana’s national dance)!

Accra . . . first impresions - by Zakiya Thornhill

I grew up in a city, but I could never imagine anything like Accra. At first all I could see were dirt roads and shacks, and my only thought was “where are all the buildings?” Eventually, I saw buildings (there are many, of course) but all was superseded by an overwhelming feeling that this city was different than anything to which I have (heretofore) been exposed.

One thing that I have learned is that Ghanaians work hard. Every day is a hustle and every person/tourist provides an opportunity to do business and develop a friendship. Accra is filled with thousands of entrepreneurs trying to provide for their families. Many make and/or sell sculptures and paintings to sell to tourists. Vendors greet you with “my friend” or “my sister” in the hopes that you might be interested in purchasing a bracelet (or other item) from them. While bracelets may sell for only a couple Cedis (about US $1.25), this money provides essential income to a person trying to do the best for themselves and their families.

Madina Market in Accra - by Claire Mooney

I doubt anything could have fully prepared us for Madina Market. To compare Madina to U.S. American markets, one envisions a combination of Chinatown and a carnival, except louder and faster paced, on red dirt roads, tropical temperatures, and 2 foot trenches on either side of the road. There’s also less electricity and a lack of traffic regulations. To top it all off, Ghanaians are the friendliest people imaginable.

The market visit was both exciting and overwhelming. From afar, the market appeared to consist of a group of colorful tents on dusty roads. Once in the market, you realize that you could walk around all day and not see every vendor. There were secondhand clothes from the U.S., cages of animals, cheap electronics, energetic children, and men who insist that they would like to marry you.

Many vendors sold local foods, which smelled great. Upon seeing our group and realizing that we were from the U.S., vendors would yell “Akwaaba!” (welcome!) and showed us their goods. Responding in one of the local languages – we had studied “survival level Twi” before visiting the market – always drew big smiles.

At one stage, we walked through an area with many parked cars and buses. We quickly realized that this was a transport hub as many taxi drivers rushed to us asking if we needed a ride. We explained that we still had more shopping to do and that we didn’t need any rides just yet.

Two of the items we wished to purchase were Ghanaian fabric (which the country is famous for) and some bracelets. At first we had difficulty locating these items, but when we asked a woman selling vegetables where we might look for fabric and bracelets, she jumped up and led us through a maze of vendors for twenty minutes until we reached our destination. We found (and later learned in class) that Ghanaians are happy to assist passersby with directions, often leading and delivering visitors to their exact destination. The fabric we bought was beautiful, and we were amaze at the compassionate nature of Ghanaians willing and eager to direct in the market to the items we wished to purchase.

Later, a vendor speaking French introduced himself as coming from the Ivory Coast (Ghana’s neighbor to the West). This man was happy to share his language with us as well as a few laughs. He took us to the center of the market where we could find some bracelets. We bargained as best we could, and went home with some nice bracelets and great stories.

For those willing to navigate the Madina market, the rewards are plenty!

Accra: Suma Court Hotel - by Daybelis Ramirez

Suma Court Hotel is located in Ghana's capital city of Accra. It was the first guesthouse we visited in Ghana, and everyone there welcomed us with love. In the four days we stayed there, every morning the mates madde us breakfast, my favorite part of which was the many delicious, and various, fresh fruits. The way the tables were set-up and how the food looked and tasted really showed that they cared about us. They did their best to make us feel comfortable, and indeed we were.

Being at Suma Court was a learning experience; it showed me the loving, caring side of Africa. It's amazing how strangers can make you feel so happy and how we can become attached to someone we just met. Suma Court Hostel has been my favorite place we have stayed so far on the program - it was my home away from home and I will miss everyone.

Accra: Days 1-4 Overview

Students arrived at Kotoka International Airport on Thursday, June 7. After collecting our bags and passing customs, we traveled to the Suma Hotel which was to be our home for the beginning days of the program. We were welcomed at the Suma Hotel and enjoyed mixing it up with the hotel staff, who shared with us delicious Ghanaian food (if a bit spicy for some at the beginning!), showed us some new dance moves, and humored us as we attemped to speak a few words of Twi, Ghana's lingua franca. We also learned from program staff the correct way to greet people in Ghana, cultural do's/dont's, and discussed the ambitious schedule.

Friday June 8 was a day packed with sessions - lectures on health in Ghana, the history of Ghana, and Ghana's economy. These lectures were offered by Professors of note from the University of Ghana, Legon. The day ended with a trip to the Madina market (a topic to be taken up in a future post) - we have seen markets before, but we found the market experience in Ghana to be fascinating . . . if intense!

Our last day in Accra was reseved for an introductory, field-based assignment. In one of our Poughkeepsie-based seminars, we had talked about the theory of "experiential education," or the idea that one can learn from active reflection upon experiences. Students were randomly divided up into teams of four, and given (sealed) envelopes with instructions to investigate (using primary data collected through observation, participant observation, and informal interviews/discussion) key topics, including market culture, fashion, and tourism. Groups were dropped off at particular points in Accra to investigate their topics for 2-3 hours, and then to take "tro tro" taxis back to the meeting point for debriefing. The assignment challenged participants to learn as much as possible on the topic, to "get out there" talking to Ghanaians, so as to push beyond "tourist mode," and to further develop self-confidence, life-, and cultural skills in a new environment.

Marist in Ghana 2012 !!

From June 6 to June 24, thirteen Marist students plus two Marist Professors have embarked upon this year's short-term study abroad program in Ghana. Dr. Brian Yates and Dr. John Peters are leading the program this year, which examines Ghanaian and African history, culture, economics, and politics. The program comprises 8 academic seminars/lectures held on the Marist Poughkeepsie campus in preparation for the 2 1/2 week sojurn. Program participants will experience both urban and rural Ghana, including visits to Accra, Cape Coast, Kumasi, Tamale, and many places in-between.

Program participants include: Natisha Alexander, Kate Annunziato, Jennifer Bennett, Emily Bennetts, Jamar Cummings, Erin Jordan, Annettee Lawrence, Meghan Mahony, Claire Mooney, Brian Plaia, Daybelis Ramirez, Karissa Stokdal, Zakiya Thornhill, Dr. John Peters, and Dr. Brian Yates.

Also accompanying the program for part of the trip is Dr. John Scileppi, Professor of Psychology at Marist. Dr. Scileppi traveled to Ghana for program development purposes - the good professor plans to offer a psychology-focused short-term program in Ghana in June 2013.

Ghanaian Spirit and Mole National Park

After departing from Tamale, we began to make our way to Mole Park for the night. The drive to the park was an adventure in itself when our van broke down half way there due to the poor road conditions. We were lucky enough to find a person willing to take all eight of us to Mole the rest of the way. We all found it very interesting how a complete stranger was willing to help us out. You sure don’t come across that kindness in the States. Even though our new friend, Sim, isn’t from Ghana, it just proves how the Ghanaian spirit can rub off on anyone.

Riding in the back of Sim’s truck through the twists and turns of Africa was definitely a highlight of our trip. We never imagined we’d be off-roaming through the back roads of Ghana, but it is a memory we will never forget. It was such a surreal experience…just like you see in the movies!

Much to our surprise, Sim’s generosity didn’t end there. After arriving at the park, he invited us to join himself and his friends on an afternoon safari where he utilized his past experiences in the park to ensure we were able to witness all the great aspects of Mole Park. We all piled back into the truck and set off to see the animals.

We were very lucky to track down the elephants within minutes. As the photos depict, we were able to get extremely close to them and boy were they a sight to see! We learned that the elephants here in the park are savannah elephants and they are a much friendlier breed than other elephants. The ones we were able to witness had been pushed out of their herd as a result of old age. While they may be 50 years old they are still some of the most beautiful animals on earth!

As we continued on our safari adventure, we saw a variety of animals including warthogs, baboons, and antelope. Many people have told us that the animals will come knocking on our doors late at night, but we shall soon see!

Today surely was a day filled with excitement! Not many people can say they got to see wild elephants up close and personal, have driven through the middle of Africa, or have felt the pure kindness of a stranger. It will surely be one for the record books!

The Big Show!

Today marked our 5th day of volunteering in the village schools. Each day it appears that we are progressively better in our teaching abilities and the students are grasping the materials that we are providing to them. Following, our daily activities we relaxed until out big show at the Maltiti School for Girls.
The village came together for one last time this evening to celebrate in song, music and dancing. The crowd gathered outside the Maltiti school, which could not have been a better setting considering our time spent teaching and painting the school this past week.

Our spirits were high and the encouragement from the villagers gave us the energy to perform after our week of training. Each of us received a traditional performing costume that gave our drumming and dancing skills a little more spice. Our lessons not only taught us a routine to perform for friends and family, but gave us insight into the heart and soul that music brings to Ghanaians. Our teachers were supportive through every drum beat we could not find or dance move that our bodies did not want to make at first. Their dedication as a group inspired us to embrace the African-cultural dance.

Our evening ended with an honorary gift presented by Fredrick and the Youth Chief. Professor Summers was presented with a traditional Dagomba Chief tribal hat and robe along with a warm thank you from our service and commitment to the community. Following the presentation, each student received Dagomba robes, which were all slightly different and beautifully handcrafted. This kind gesture was unexpected and very generous.

The villagers, children, drummers and dancers have taught our group about the amazing culture Ghana celebrates together. Being included on a daily basis in the Tamale culture has given us an enriching experience to our trip. We are forever grateful for the warmth and kindness that the people of Ghana have showed us.